How to choose the perfect lash thickness?

Are you a lash artist looking to perfect your craft and enhance your clients' natural beauty? Understanding the importance of lash thickness is crucial in achieving stunning results. From voluminous, dramatic lashes to more natural, everyday looks, selecting the ideal lash diameter can make all the difference in creating the perfect set of lashes for your clients.

In this article, we will explore what eyelash thickness is, why it matters, and how you can choose the perfect thickness as a skilled lash artist. Join us on this journey as we uncover the secrets behind mastering lash extension thickness and learn valuable tips that will take your lashing skills to new heights!


Understanding Lash Thickness

Essentially, lash thickness refers to the diameter of a lash strand. The right thickness can dramatically impact the overall look and feel of the lashes while complementing each individual's unique eye shape and style preferences.

Whether you're new to the art of lashing or seeking to refine your technique, understanding lash diameter is crucial for lash artists to achieve the perfect lash look. By understanding how various lash thicknesses can impact overall aesthetics, how to choose and manipulate different lash thicknesses will undoubtedly contribute to your success in creating beautiful, customized eyelash extensions for every client.


The Impact of Lash Thickness

When it comes to lash thickness, the impact goes beyond just aesthetics. A thicker lash can not only elevate overall look but also provide a more dramatic effect, drawing attention to the eyes and making them appear larger. With the right lash thickness, you can enhance your natural beauty and boost your confidence.

Thicker lashes also have the advantage of holding their curl better and last longer, giving you a wide-eyed and awake appearance that lasts throughout the day. Additionally, thicker lashes can offer added protection by shielding your eyes from debris and dust particles, promoting overall eye health. But how thick is thick enough? Let's categorize them:


Lash Thickness Chart

In the current market, lash thickness range from 0.02mm way up to 0.3mm. Most suppliers carry the following lash extension diameters: 0.03, 0.05, 0.07, 0.10, 0.15 mm, they are the most-used and popular amongst lash thicknesses.

Image presenting a lash thickness chart, by Lii Lash,ranging from 0.02mm to 0.25mm, depicting the spectrum of options for lash extensions

Very Thin Lash Extensions

Extensions 0.02 and 0.03 are considered very thin. Normally, they’re only used for mega volume-style extensions (>10D), where multiple extensions are attached to a single natural lash.

Thin Lash Extensions

Extensions with thickness 0.05mm, 0.07mm to 0.085mm are considered thin. Normally, they’re used for Russian volume-style extensions (2-9D)

Medium Lash Extensions

Extensions from 0.1, 0.12mm to 0.15 mm are medium. They’re a very safe choice for classic sets where only one extension lash is attached to each natural lash. They are usually used on thinner natural lashes.

0.1 thickness can also be used for light volume 2-3D

Thick Lash Extensions

Lashes between 0.18 mm and 0.2 mm are the thickest extensions you can use for classic sets. Only use them on clients with thick, strong natural lashes.

Super Thick Lash Extensions

While lashes between 0.25 to 0.30 mm thicknesses are available on the market, it is not recommended to use as these thicker lashes are too heavy compared to most people's natural lashes and can cause severe damage. The weight of these lashes can put excessive strain on the natural lashes, leading to breakage and premature shedding.


How to choose the Right Lash Thickness

When choosing the perfect diameter, your client’s natural lashes, application technique and desired look, all play a significant role.

When it comes to the style, it's common knowledge that thicker lashes deliver a bold and dramatic effect, whereas thinner ones contribute to a more natural appearance. But if the extension is too thin, the result might not show up good. On the flip side, if it's too thick, it can stress out your clients’ natural lashes and cause damage. So, it's really important to find that sweet spot in thickness.

However, the initial focus shouldn't be on the desired style but rather on your client's natural lashes. You want to make sure the weight of the lash extensions is just right for your client to keep things balanced. 


Based on technique

The thicker the lashes, the heavier they become. Therefore, if you aim to create a larger fan, it's essential to use thinner lashes. This helps ensure they won't cause harm to your client's natural lashes. Here's suggested thickness levels for various techniques:

  • Classic lashes: 0.1, 0.12, 0.15, 0.18, 0.2
  • Volume lashes (2-9D): 0.05, 0.07, 0.085, 0.01 (light volume 2-3D)
  • Mega volume lashes (>10D): 0.02, 0.03

But specifically, what thickness is the optimal for each technique? 


For Classic Lashes

For those with thin eyelashes, use 0.1, 0.12 and 0.15

Asian individuals typically have thiner natural eyelashes compared to people of other ethnic backgrounds. You may also observe that elder clients who are over 50 tend to have thinner eyelashes compared to younger clients.

For people with medium thick eyelashes: use 0.15 and 0.18

For people with thick lashes: use 0.18 and 0.2


For Volume Lashes

As a lash artist, you've probably come across this question: how do we determine the right number of extensions for the Volume technique? Specifically, what's the optimal number of strands for one volume fan?

The answer lies in aligning with the weight of a classic lash that a natural lash can handle. Then convert this weight into a safe limit for volume lash fans using this formula

Maximum D in Volume Lash = Quotient of Weight of Classic Lashes / Weight of 1 Volume Lash

So, for example: A client whose natural lash can handle 0.15mm for the classic extension, and you want to create volume lash set with 0.07mm, then you can calculate the maximum D by

The maximum number of lashes = Quotient of Weight of a 0.15mm lash/ Weight of a 0.07mm lash

But remembering and constantly calculating can be challenging. That's why we've already done the conversion for you. We've translated it into the most commonly used volume thicknesses: 0.03mm, 0.05mm, and 0.07mm.


1 of 0.15mm = 4-5D fan of 0.07mm = 8-10D fan of 0.05mm = 20-24D fan of 0.03mm.

Which means, you can apply maximum 2D at thickness 0.07, 4D at thickness 0.05 and 10D at thickness 0.03

1 lash of 0.10mm = 2D fan of 0.07mm = 4D fan of 0.05mm = 10D fan of 0.03mm

1 lash of 0.12mm = 3D fan of 0.07mm = 5-6D fan of 0.05mm = 12-14D fan of 0.03mm

1 lash of 0.18mm = 6-7D fan of 0.07mm = 10-12D fan of 0.05mm = 30-36D fan of 0.03mm

1 lash of 0.20mm = 3D fan of 0.10mm = 8D fan of 0.07mm = 16D fan of 0.05mm = 40D fan of 0.03mm



In conclusion, choosing the right lash extension diameter is a pivotal aspect of achieving stunning and comfortable lash extensions. By understanding the weight considerations, considering the natural lash health, and selecting an appropriate thickness for the desired style and technique, you can create a customized and beautiful look for your clients.

Remember, it's not just about thickness; it's about finding the perfect balance that enhances the eyes while maintaining the overall health and comfort of the natural lashes. With these considerations in mind, you can confidently navigate the world of lash thickness, ensuring your customers leave with not just amazing lashes, but also a positive and comfortable experience.




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